Set 7 - Revised Interior

[ My Pod Home | Batch 1 | Batch 2 | Batch 3 | 4: A  New Interior Begins 5: Interior w/ Overlays | 6: Revised Interior ]
[ 7: Cutting Plastic [ 8: Real Progress | 9: Ceiling Taking Shape | 10: More Ceiling & Walls | 11: Padding the Walls ]
[ 12: Real Ceiling Work | 13: AC Vent Beginnings | 14: More Interior | 15: Misc | 16: Ceiling & Walls ]
17: Joysticks | 18: Handles & Base | 19: Decals | 20: Primer! | 21: Colo(u)red Paint ]

[ 22: Joysticks Redux ]
cockpit-b-2002-02-03.jpg (32996 bytes) What's done thus far. cockpit-a-2002-02-03.jpg (41995 bytes) Disassembled
 
A Miracle has occurred - I've really started cutting plastic! Thus far it's only the antechamber walls, floor, risers, and armrests but after 9 months or so of planning it feels really good.

A couple of things about what I've done:

  • Thanks to Clyde Jones for his nice article on cutting styrene sheet (Starship Modeler). With minor modifications to his curve cutting technique (due to the annoying universal holder for my compass) everything was a snap.
      
  • Everything's out of 1/16" thick sheet plastic. Picked up a 4'x8' sheet at one of the dozen local plastic supply houses for $20. They even cut it into manageable sizes for no extra $$. Less than 1/4 the price of buying Plastruct or Evergreen at the local hobby shop.
      
  • You'll notice (maybe) that the main floor is actually 2 layers thick. This is because of the keyways for the walls and the opening in the lower sheet to fit the piece that holds it up off the base. (I'm using a 3-sided prism for the holder even though the plans call for a tube - I hadn't worked out the revised curve cutting technique before assembling that part.) 
    The keyways for the walls are intended to make it easier to fit the pieces together (kinda like the pins on an injection molded kit). Don't know if they work well as it fit together so well (except for one thing, mentioned in a sec) that they might have been superfluous. Oh well.
      
  • I messed up in the plans for the parts and made the lower portion of the rear walls 1/16" too short. During construction I assumed that I'd messed up both that part AND the risers that go under the main consoles so I added 1/16" to all four pieces. D'oh - should only have added it to the rear walls - the extra 1/16" on the console risers comes from the thickness of the console itself. The adhesive I used is amazingly strong stuff and I'd have to destroy everything to get the incorrect console risers out for replacement, so I've opted to take very careful measurements and saw the 1/16" off the top of them. Wish me luck.
      
  • The antechamber floor is actually a box made of two small risers (about 1/4" tall) surmounted by the floor itself. I had my doubts that this would be strong enough to stand on its own with the antechamber walls removed (more in a sec) but as I stated above, Plastruct's Plastic Weld is super strong. No problems.
      
  • The antechamber walls are only taped in place right now. I needed them in place so that I could fit the other pieces in place properly, but they need a lot more work yet:
    • The starboard side wall will be remade with a small extension at the rear top to help hold up the ceiling. Right now it comes to a point and I can gain the extra space because of the off-center shape of the door. I just haven't gotten around to designing it yet.
    • The rear walls of the cockpit proper will be mated to the antechamber walls (similar to way they are in  the original kit parts) before adding them to the main assembly. This is because I wouldn't be able to work on the padding with them actually in their final locations.

Next up come the clear parts which have to be cut out before I can proceed further. I bought a 1/16" thick sheet of acrylic from Plastruct. This is the only material I could get that thick and I want these parts to be strong - little did I know how strong this stuff is! It's solid as a rock and brittle so it's very tough to cut. Luckily the Plastic Weld does a d**ned good job creating a welded joint that's very strong without any crazing whatsoever. Once I actually work out the best technique for cutting this stuff it should be smooth sailing with the next portion of the cockpit.

Stay tuned ...