Set 5 - Interior in Place

[ My Pod Home | Batch 1 | Batch 2 | Batch 3 | 4: A  New Interior Begins 5: Interior w/ Overlays | 6: Revised Interior ]
[ 7: Cutting Plastic [ 8: Real Progress | 9: Ceiling Taking Shape | 10: More Ceiling & Walls | 11: Padding the Walls ]
[ 12: Real Ceiling Work | 13: AC Vent Beginnings | 14: More Interior | 15: Misc | 16: Ceiling & Walls ]
17: Joysticks | 18: Handles & Base | 19: Decals | 20: Primer! | 21: Colo(u)red Paint ]

[ 22: Joysticks Redux ]
door_1.jpg (16180 bytes) Door / Interior Interface through_door_1.jpg (16104 bytes) In Through Door interior_no_front.jpg (20944 bytes) Overhead w/out Front
rear_wall.jpg (10542 bytes) Rear Wall
(note "s" curve in wall)
rear_and_triangular.jpg (9238 bytes) Rear Wall and Triangular Console starboard_interior.jpg (10642 bytes) Starboard Side
Console_Transparencies.gif (25266 bytes) The Overlays
(rough - no details or colors)
Added
Nov 13, 2001
 
Here's the test fit of the interior, along with the addition of test overlays ...

The interior fit fairly well. A couple of things that are royal pains:

  1. Because of the shape of the door, the antechamber floor has a very funky shape. My guess is that this is why there are no closeups of the actual door opening that would show the floor area. This means that a lot of work will have to be done under the door to hide it from view. (I am contemplating shaving out the bottom flat portion of the door so that it does not interfere with the floor. Number 3 below will still be a problem, though.)
  2. The door, in the fully open position almost touches the rear starboard wall's upper-most section (even after it's been reshaped). This portion will have to be thinned down and relieved to allow the door to open normally. (This will also make the curved interior wall more difficult to deal with.) Potential solution is to angle the triangular console in more - I'm going to have to think about this a bit before I do it.
  3. The starboard antechamber wall has a huge chunk cut out of it to allow the door to open. This is because the door is flat on the inside. Looks like hell, but there's no way around it.

As you can see, every real problem comes from the frickin' door. ("Real" thing's fault, not anything to do with Scott or the kit.) I was hoping things would work out better. Ah, well. More work. (Oh goody.)

In the views through the front window you'll notice that the front consoles look about a mile behind the opening. I freaked out over this during the test fit. Back and forth between drawings and model, I finally realized that it's OK. I'm working with 0.152 (3.8mm) thickness between glass (0.09", 2.2mm) and inner wall (0.062", 1.6mm), and this leaves roughly 0.17" (4.2 mm) to the console. In scale, this works out to be about 2" (5 cm), just about exactly the width I anticipated for the small bit of padding on top of the central displays. PHEW!

On the overlays: these are first pass - no coloring or details. Most everything's in blue as this was the first color I selected. Fit was perfect (had no doubts, as the outlines were done from the same CAD files I used for the rest). The only alteration I made was to the two side consoles - the top circular edge was far too round and tall so after I'd added the buttons, etc. I changed that shape.

The overlays were done by cropping out the consoles from the captures we've done, then (using a bunch of jiggery-pokery) twisting them around until they were "flat". Then they were dropped on top of the panel outlines and manually traced in CorelDRAW. Everything is exact - almost:

  1. Due to differences in the shape of my side and lower-"protruding" consoles I had to eliminate 2 buttons from the side consoles. I don't think anyone will ever notice.
  2. I guestimated at about 30%+ of what's in the triangular consoles.

Once I've entered the changes into the CAD system, I'll rework the mockup with updated parts and do another test fit before going to plastic. If the changes look good I'll post them in Acrobat format for other people to use.

Stay tuned ...